“Kentucky: sunshine all day, and moonshine all night” is how Dean Martin summarized one of his favorite states. Clearly, the moonshine he had in mind was Bourbon whiskey, a brew so closely associated with Kentucky that few Americans could imagine an example produced elsewhere, and many believe that the only true Bourbon is that made in the Blue Grass State. But not only is Virginia Gentleman – distilled in that adjoining state – entitled to call itself Bourbon, it transpires that whiskey was first produced in Virginia, though, to be fair, Kentucky was part of Virginia until 1792. Incidentally, and quite chastely, the designated beverage for both states is milk.

Now owned since 2003 by the Buffalo Trace Distillery, Virginia Gentleman was originally founded in 1934 by Abram Smith Bowman along with his sons, DeLong and Smith. The distillery currently offers two products: an 80-proof (40% alcohol by volume) mainstream whiskey, and a 90-proof small-batch luxury variant. This last has won regular recognition, including Double Gold and Best American Whiskey, at the annual San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Most Bourbon is distilled twice to create a smoother liquor, but all Virginia Gentleman production is triple-distilled, a tradition that prevails in the distilleries of Ireland.

In a unique diversification arrangement dating back to the late 1990s, Tim Ashman of the Ashman Manufacturing Co. managed to persuade the A. Smith Bowman Distillery to extend him licensing rights to blend their finest whiskey with hot peppers to produce a steak sauce. The resulting Virginia Gentleman 90 Proof Bourbon Chipotle Hot Sauce swept to victory in the 8^th annual Virginia Food and Beverage Expo held in 200 at Richmond, beating 18 other competitors to claim the “Best New Product [Diamond] Award”. Ashman now uses Virginia gentleman 90 Proof Bourbon as a base for a range of highly regarded sauces:

• Barbecue Sauce
• Berry Barbecue Sauce
• Chipotle Glaze and Sauce
• Chipotle Hot Sauce
• Maple Glaze and Sauce
• Steak Sauce, and
• Teriyaki Glaze and Sauce

In Virginia and Maryland one of the first crops to herald the arrival of spring is fresh asparagus. Stores will display early examples towards the end of February but for the best and cheapest of the harvest wait until April and May. It is rightly regarded as a delicacy amongst vegetables and often comes with a hefty price tag, reflecting not only its luxury status but also the fact that it has to be harvested by hand. A member of the lily family and therefore related to onions, garlic and leeks, the green variety is the most common, but there are also white and purple varieties; and though freezing and canning enable round year availability, there is nothing like the delicate taste of fresh asparagus. Its popularity is undeniable: the United States is the world’s fourth largest grower – about 75% of the country’s crop comes from California – whilst at the same time being the product’s major importer.

Asparagus spears don’t react well to over-cooking, though they are amenable to poaching, grilling, and steaming. They are equally at home blended into soup or served cold in a salad, but there are many who will only ever eat their asparagus simply lightly grilled or poached and dipped in melted butter or olive oil. Try it as an antipasti wrapped in paper-thin slices of Parma ham.

It was in the lands around the east of the Mediterranean over two thousand years ago that the cultivation of asparagus first began. The Greeks and Romans valued it for its unique delicate flavor and texture, and it was also recognized as possessing medicinal properties. It became popular in England and France during the 16^th century and it was brought to America by early colonists at about this time.

Many ailments can be prevented and relieved by the healthy nutrients that abound densely in asparagus. Most importantly these include:

• Cancer. Prevention is promoted by the presence of anti-oxidants and glutathione.

• Heart Disease. Regular consumption of asparagus can help strengthen a weak or enlarged heart.

• Rheumatism and Arthritis. Asparagus can provide an anti-inflammatory relief.

Always go for straight, firm spears with tight-closed tips when shopping for asparagus. Thickness of the spear is a matter of personal taste and may depend on how the asparagus is to be prepared. Needless to say, it should as far as possible be eaten fresh, but it may be kept for up to three days without too much deterioration wrapped in plastic and stored in a refrigerator.

The half-smoke has been described as a local D.C. delicacy but in truth it’s about as delicate as an air raid, though definitely none the worse for that. Nor indeed should it ever be called a hot dog, meat though it surely is, admittedly tubular and dog-like in shape, and it’s served on a bun; but there the similarities end. It comes larger and thicker than a regular frankfurter, with meat of a coarser grind, often comprising equal quantities of beef and pork, and unlike its typical Teutonic antecedent it is a smoked product. With the standard smothering of onion, herbs, chili, and mustard, the overall unexpected effect is somewhat more torridly complex than that of the usual chili dog.

Possibly the capital’s only indigenous dish, and certainly the quintessential street food of D.C., half-smokes are available from hot dog carts all over the city yet are surprisingly difficult to locate anywhere other than in the D.C. area. They come grilled, steamed, or heated dirty water style, and with topping variations on the chili, mustard, and onion theme.

Throughout America these days it seems to be a must that the vote-worthiness of politicians and the credentials of celebrities in general are linked to their affection for a hot dog. In D.C. this means being photographed grappling with a half-smoke in the local landmark restaurant, Ben’s Chili Bowl, or at the Weenie Beenie in South Arlington. Luminaries such as Bill Cosby and President Obama have famously visited Ben’s Chili Bowl in recent years and have not found the restaurant’s celebrated “secret recipe” half-smoke wanting in any respect.

It was D.C.’s Briggs and Co. meatpackers who produced the first half-smoke sausages in the 1930s or ‘40s, though that company has now been sold on, and these days the best examples are held to come from the Manger Packing Corp. in Maryland who supply both Ben’s Chili Bowl and Weenie Beenie.

So where does the name half-smoke come from? There are those who believe cryptically that it’s because the sausage is only halfway smoked – we are left to guess what this may mean. Others favor the explanation that it’s often made from half and half beef and pork, whilst there are also some who believe it reflects the habit of many chefs who split the sausage in half before grilling. No one is sure, but who cares, next time you’re downtown grab a half-smoke and celebrate a unique D.C. treasure.

The precise associations of this historic dish with the state for which it is named seem to have got lost in the mists of time. So much so that it can’t even decide whether to call itself “Chicken Maryland” or “Maryland Chicken”. However, what is clear is what differentiates it from other Southern fried chicken recipes. The Maryland version is not deep fried in oil or shortening, instead being shallow fried in a skillet until browned, and then covered over a reduced heat for up to 40 minutes to allow the chicken pieces to steam as well as fry. Cream or milk is then added to the pan juices to produce an accompanying cream gravy. Some recipes include overnight marinating of the chicken in buttermilk to tenderize the meat prior to cooking.

Whilst there is no specific provenance for the suggestion, it is likely that the idea of serving the dish with a sauce originated in Maryland, and is the probable origin for the name. “Maryland Fried Chicken” seems to have appeared in print for the first time in 1878 as a menu item at the Grand Union Hotel in Saratoga, New York, although there is no record of how the dish was prepared and presented.

Unlike many Southern fried chicken recipes which call for complex herb and spice mixtures in their coatings, traditional Maryland recipes include only basic seasonings with a flour, breadcrumb, or occasionally batter coating; though the lists of herbs and spices used can vary, especially in recipes handed down through the generations in many Maryland families.

Elsewhere in the world, Chicken Maryland has various other meanings:

• In Australia it refers not to a cooked dish but to a cut of chicken comprising the leg elements of thigh and drumstick.

• In the UK it was a fashionable dish of the 1960s and ‘70s consisting of fried chicken accompanied by corn and banana fritters.

• The Argentineans enjoy their “Suprema de Pollo Maryland” where a breaded schnitzel of chicken breast is served topped with a fried egg along with creamed corn, fried banana, and French fries.

• In France the great chef, Escoffier, published a “Chicken a la Maryland” recipe whereby pan-fried chicken was served with a garnish of bananas.

Whether or not offering the Escoffier recipe, an entry on the last first class luncheon menu produced onboard RMS Titanic was for “Chicken a la Maryland”.

The Italian word for slipper is ciabatta and the shape of this bread does admittedly bear a passing resemblance to such floppy footwear, being flattish, broad, and somewhat elongated. Cut vertically, you could just about accommodate an anchovy between two pieces, but sliced horizontally, it’s ideal for sandwiches, especially pressed and toasted panini. It also sits comfortably alongside other Italian favorites like olives, prosciutto, cheese, and chianti on a rustic luncheon platter.

To all appearances ciabatta has the attributes anyone would expect of a traditional, artisan bread, with a long history celebrated in folklore and myth. You could cheerfully imagine Michaelangelo, taking a break while his latest Sistine Chapel fresco dried, tucking into a goats’ cheese panino; or Catherine de Medici preparing a belladonna-laced savory spread for some unwelcome dinner guest to eat with his slipper-bread. And surely it was to liberate the then secret recipe for ciabatta that the Vandals set out to pillage Rome in the 5^th century. Alas, none of these flights of fancy turns out to be true. The genesis of modern ciabatta dates back only to 1982, though other breads bearing the name may have preceded it.

In Italy, as in the rest of the developed world in 1982, the market for sandwiches had grown more and more valuable as people sought convenience foods that would fit better with their increasingly busy lifestyles. But with unsuitable indigenous breads dating from more relaxed times, massive imports of sandwich-friendly baguettes from France were starting to dominate the market, and it was a miller from Adria near Venice called Arnaldo Cavallari who decided it was time to strike back. He analyzed and experimented with various regional breads, using his own flour to try out new dough recipes and baking times, and eventually produced the slipper-shaped loaf he named Ciabatta Polesano after the area where he worked. Throughout Italy the baguette insurgency was soon thwarted and the ciabatta loaf turned its attentions to the rest of the world.

The bread was introduced to America in the early 1990s and mass production spread quickly around the nation as the popularity of pressed and toasted panini grew.

There surely can’t be many of us who as kids haven’t set out for the day with a packed lunch featuring baloney, or more properly Bologna, sandwiches. This cooked, smoked sausage is as deeply embedded in American food culture as Thanksgiving turkey. It is made most commonly from ground pork or beef and seasoned with sugar, salt, pepper, and other spices; though other more exotic versions are available containing game or other meats. The cooking and smoking pasteurize the product which can be sliced ready for use once liberated from its skin.

But baloney is just one example of the many sausage recipes found worldwide that owe their origins to a tradition of meat preservation dating back, according to documents from that period, to at least the late 14^th century in Bologna, Italy. Like baloney, Mortadella di Bologna is also made from finely ground pork with seasoning, herbs, and spices including whole or ground black peppercorns, nutmeg, coriander, and myrtle berries; but unlike its American derivative it is not smoked and contains 15% fat which is added to the mix as cubes of lard. Versions are also produced containing whole green olives, jalapeños, or shelled pistachios.

There are two schools of thought concerning the origin of the name mortadella. Sausages prepared in Roman times were filled with paste ground in a large mortar, whilst records show that a particular example was flavored with myrtle berries rather than black peppercorns. We are left to decide for ourselves which of the words mortar or myrtle provides the root for the modern name.

Under the terms of European Union Law, Mortadella di Bologna has Protected Geographical Indication which limits its production to the region of Emilia-Romagna which Bologna serves as capital, and to its neighboring regions.

Mortadella has a number of culinary applications. It features as part of the stuffing for the classic Italian dish, tortellini bolognesi, and is a frequent partner, sliced or cubed, for cheese and salads, as well as being a ubiquitous sandwich filling. But perhaps most commonly it may be found amongst the array of delicacies that comprise platters of antipasti served daily in both Italian restaurants and households.

With temperatures plunging and the dreary prospect of a lot of winter to come before the onset of spring, what could provide more warmth and comfort than a substantial, rich, flavorsome stew.  The enticing waft of spices and herbs in a simmering sauce laden with vegetables and meat spreads through the house during the long, slow cooking process that whets the appetite of everyone at home. When it’s cold outside who could blame you for hunkering down in the kitchen with something to read, and treating yourself to a savory facial sauna every twenty minutes or so in order to give a necessary stir. Whether served as an element at a formal dinner or just in a bowl in front of a homely fire, these one-pot wonders are the essence of cozy contentment.

The best results of slow cooking are surprisingly delivered by the cheapest cuts of meat, making a winter stew an economic choice. Four or five hours is usually sufficient time to thoroughly tenderize good chunks of beef, pork, lamb, and venison, but if events mean waiting a while longer to serve don’t worry, with a tight-fitting lid to control evaporation a stew is almost impossible to spoil. To emphasize this point there are old stories of farmers’ wives in the south of France cooking cassoulet, a traditional local stew of white beans and various meats, excluding chicken and fish. A great cassoulet pot would sit perpetually in the bread oven or over an open hearth to provide an instant meal and would be topped up as required with game, beans, and water.

Making a stew in advance can be very rewarding, not only when time is freed up for other preparations, but also refrigerating overnight to allow the flavors to develop, especially when complex mixes of herbs and spices have been used.

There are a few tips and techniques that will help ensure good results:

• If the recipe calls for the meat and sometimes vegetables to be browned, it should be done in a hot pan containing hot oil in small batches to maintain the heat and ensure even caramelization. The meat should be brought to room temperature before starting this process.
• Thickening a stew can be achieved by adding chopped potato or lentils that will incorporate into the sauce during long cooking, or by using flour which should always be browned before the addition of liquid to the stew.
• Wine is commonly used in stews, but the choice should be drinkable and not of inferior quality.
• Where stock is used, a homemade or store-bought choice is best, but a cube will provide acceptable results.

There must be many of us who when quite small were given a cut half of a pomegranate and a cocktail stick with which to spear and eat the jewel-like seed casings or arils. The fruit is a continuing source of fascination. Its history and cultivation, its many cultural, mythological and religious associations around the world, and its myriad culinary applications are all topics worthy of exploration. But for this piece let us focus on the pomegranate’s health-promoting properties, recognised since the time of the pharaohs, and these days giving rise to the attainment of super-food status. It turns out that the fruit that gave its name to a Great Spanish city (Granada), an island state in the Caribbean (Grenada), and a small hand-propelled bomb (grenade) is also rich in health-giving nutrients.

The juice and edible seeds of the pomegranate contain an abundance of vitamins A, C, E, iron and other important minerals which provide protection from a number of common ailments. But now a growing body of medical research and clinical trials suggests that a glass of pomegranate juice taken daily can reduce significantly the incidence of cardiovascular disease due to its high antioxidant content.  These are naturally occurring substances that protect us from damaging chemicals in the blood known as free radicals which react with cholesterol to form fatty deposits that speed up hardening of the arteries and lead to heart disease. Some studies have shown that the fruit’s juice slows down cholesterol oxidation by almost a half and that reduced arterial hardening is accompanied by improved blood vessel function and general heart health. In one study of hypertensive patients, pomegranate juice consumed daily over a two-week period was shown significantly to have reduced systolic blood pressure.

Set alongside the same volume of other acknowledged sources of antioxidants such as green tea and red wine, pomegranate juice appears to enjoy almost three times their antioxidant ability.

Consumption of the juice – and seeds – can also prevent the onset of viral infections and as a bonus benefit it seems that pomegranate extracts have antibacterial effects which inhibit dental plaque.

It has to be said that as a business proposition the manufacture of honey sucks. In a working life counted in weeks a worker makes only a teaspoonful of the stuff, and this only after putting in twelve hour days, seven days a week. Moreover, the production of one pound of honey involves about 50,000 worker air miles, the sort of distance you or I would clock up by going twice round the world. But made under these conditions by dedicated bees, honey is truly one of nature’s greatest miracles, treasured down the ages as a food and sweetening agent, and also for its healing properties.

The treatment of wounds using antibacterial properties of honey was widespread right up until the Second World War, but the introduction of penicillin and other antibiotics led to it being side-lined for this purpose. However, thanks to research carried out in New Zealand, this might be about to change. At the Honey Research Unit at the University of Waikato a specific honey with extraordinary healing powers has been identified. It is made from the flowers of the manuka bush.

The heightened medicinal qualities of manuka honey have been attributed to a naturally occurring active ingredient it contains and which so far has defied identification. For the time being it bears the name “unique manuka factor” or UMF.

Measured against the antibacterial efficacy of regular antiseptics such as phenol or carbolic, manuka honey registers amazing results. Its sphere of operation is very wide-ranging, working on bacteria, fungi, and protozoa, and so far no infectious organism has been found that it won’t tackle. Even the antibiotic resistant bacteria such as MRSA that have been troubling hospitals worldwide are within its remit.

Beyond the laboratory in clinical trials at the Waikato Hospital the honey has been used successfully to treat leg ulcers and pressure sores, and post-surgical healing has been accelerated, especially for patients suffering from diabetes. It has also demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties.

In another important area of application manuka honey has been used effectively in cancer cases to treat fungating wounds where cancer has erupted through the skin, and on dressings for skin damage arising from radiation treatment. Many patients benefitting from the treatment have previously tried more conventional approaches with less success.

Generally, patients have been happy to try the honey treatment, perhaps because many are instinctively well-disposed towards natural remedies, though some problems can occur when there is a lack of understanding about how it works.

Quite apart from the treatment of wounds, ulcers, acne and pimples, manuka honey is also conventionally beneficial in soothing sore throats and colds, and relieving indigestion. But there is, too, the question of taste. Although some may find it somewhat “medicinal” many will love its robust flavor on toast, in tea, or straight from the spoon.

In my last piece we talked about the restaurants of Washington’s Little Ethiopia community and this time I thought that I might continue the North African theme by turning my attention to Moroccan cuisine, great examples of which may be sampled in many excellent Moroccan restaurants located in the capital.

There are two particular cooking vessels that are associated with Morocco: the tagine and the perhaps less familiar tangia.

• A tagine is a two-piece earthenware pot that comprises a flat, round base and a large cone-shaped cover that sits within the lip of the base during cooking. The pot is designed to perform slow stewing on a stove top and the shape of the cover promotes the return of condensation to the base. The knob formed at the top of the cover enables it to be lifted during cooking so that progress can be observed and further ingredients or any extra braising liquid can be added. At the end of cooking the base unit is used to serve the dish. The less expensive cuts of lamb and chicken are ideal for slow simmering in a tagine and are often accompanied by seasonal local fruits and spices. Apricots, preserved lemons, cinnamon, cumin, saffron, and ginger are frequently used.

• On the other hand, a tangia is an urn-shaped clay pot that produces results similar to a tagine but only after long, slow, sealed cooking in an oven, the absence of which from traditional Moroccan homes meant that the pots would be taken to the local communal walk-in oven and left for many hours on hot coals to slow cook.

The following recipe for lamb tangia serves 6 and can be made successfully in a dutch oven and conventional cooker.

Ingredients:

• 4 lb Shoulder of lamb cut into 6 portions, excess fat removed
• 1 ½ Preserved lemons, peeled
• 2 Large onions, peeled and quartered
• 1 tbsp Cumin seeds, lightly pounded in a pestle and mortar
• 10 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 tbsp Ground coriander seeds
• 1 Handful parsley
• 2 oz Butter
• 6 fl oz Water
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Pre-heat the oven to 450º F
2. In a food processor place the water, preserved lemon peel, garlic, onion, spices, herbs, salt and pepper and blend to a coarse sauce
3. Smear the butter over the base of a dutch oven, lay the meat in the pan, and pour over the sauce, mixing well
4. Cover the pan with double layers of wax paper and aluminum foil pressed in around the rim, then press on the lid to make a good seal
5. Place the pan in the middle of the oven, reduce the temperature to 275º F and cook for 5 hours
6. Serve with boiled potatoes or rice